Seeking nature at its purest: A hike to Wli Agumatsa Waterfalls

Describe the features of a perfect getaway town, and I would point you to Wli in Ghana. Wli is located approximately 280 kilometres from Accra, making it a worthwhile journey for anyone seeking nature at its purest.

This quiet destination has steadily won the hearts of travellers and backpackers looking for something untouched and refreshing. Wli is a border town along the Ghana–Togo border, located in the Hohoe Municipality in the Volta Region.

The town is best known for the Wli Waterfalls, locally called Wli Agumatsa, one of the most iconic waterfalls in West Africa. The name carries deep cultural meaning. Wli translates from the Ewe language to mean to struggle or to claim something. Agomatsa means ‘allow me to flow’. Together, these words express a powerful idea, as if the water is speaking, carving its way through the dense forest, insisting on its path and freedom.

The journey

Wli Waterfalls has two levels: the lower falls and the upper falls. Reaching the upper falls requires a demanding hike through thick forest, about six hours via the shorter route, or up to eight hours on the longer trail. The lower falls, which is also the largest and most visited, takes about a 50-minute hike to reach. Along the way, you pass through the Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary, which is home to over 200 bird species and more than 400 butterfly species, making the journey just as rewarding as the destination.

It is the ultimate place to recalibrate and truly escape. The entire experience is wrapped in lush greenery, towering trees, clean mountain air, and the constant sound of water echoing through the hills. When you finally arrive at the falls, watching the water descend from the mountains is both calming and powerful. The landscape here is breathtaking, a place where you simply walk, breathe, and reset.

At a time when many countries including Ghana are experiencing the effects of land degradation and global warming due to deforestation, it was truly refreshing to encounter an area that remains largely untouched. The difference was clear: clean air, a cooler climate, and a sense of natural balance.

Image 1: The view that welcomes you when entering Wli town

Image 2: Wli Waterfalls (Lower Falls)

Where journey and destination meet

After arriving in Wli, the main goal is clear: reach the mighty Wli Waterfalls, just about a 50-minute walk from the reception. The journey itself is part of the magic, and thankfully, it’s a relatively easy and rewarding walk.

The trail begins gently, leading you through stretches of maize, cassava, and cocoa farms, an everyday glimpse into local life, before gradually drawing you into a lush, shaded forest. Here, the atmosphere shifts. You’re surrounded by rich flora, the soft rustle of leaves, and the steady chorus of birdsong echoing through the trees.

As you continue, the presence of the waterfalls reveals itself in subtle ways. A clear, cool stream runs alongside the path, flowing steadily from the falls ahead, almost guiding you forward. Then come the bridges, seven simple metal crossings over the stream, each one bringing you closer, each step building anticipation.

By the time you cross the final bridge, the sound of rushing water grows louder, and suddenly, you’re there, standing before the waterfalls, where the journey and destination meet in one breathtaking moment.

Image 3: Breathtaking views

Adventure seekers

Now, you may have completed the first adventure, but if you still have the strength, the upper falls awaits. Most visitors turn back after reaching the lower section of Wli Waterfalls, satisfied with the experience. If the plan is to reach the upper falls from the start, that’s where the real journey truly begins.

You branch off the main path even before the lower falls, stepping into an approximately eight-hour adventure. Along this route, you’re rewarded not only with sweeping mountain landscapes of Ghana, but also breathtaking views stretching into Togo. I’ve hiked to both the lower and upper falls twice, and it’s an experience I would recommend again and again.

The mountain range feels completely untouched. No noise, no pollution - just fresh, clean air filling your lungs. The clouds seem to move with you, drifting and dancing across the peaks. And if you’re a camper, the summit offers the perfect spot to pitch your tent. Imagine sipping coffee as the sun sets on one side of the mountains, then waking to watch it rise on the other.

Then, pack up, make your way down to the falls, and reward yourself with a cool, refreshing dip. You won’t just return - you’ll come back renewed.

Image 4: Sunset at the Ghana-Togo mountain range

Image 5: Mist coming out from the mountains

Image 6: A close up view of the town from the mountains

Image 7: This is me on my way to the upper falls

Image 8: Wli Waterfalls (Upper Falls)

The upper falls reveals a beauty entirely its own, distinct from the lower cascade in both scale and feeling. Here lies the source of the falls, perched high on the mountain and flowing directly from the Togo side of the range. It feels raw and untouched, as if you’ve reached the origin of something ancient, where the water first gathers, then begins its long, powerful descent.